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By D. Clay Hays Yes, even in the relatively warm winters of Arkansas it is still important to properly winterize your boat. It's not just about freezing temperatures. Yesterday, I finished a new page in the "Boats & Boating" section, Boat Storage, that explains the different types of boat storage, the need for winterization, and where you can get it done in Hot Springs. Sure, if you're handy and know a bit about boat motors you can winterize yourself but if you don't do it right...if you make one little mistake...the after affects can range from poor running conditions to a cracked engine block! Hence the need to have it done correctly. So what is a proper winterization? Well the rules are different for outboards and inboards but they should all start with fuel stabilizer, (I've always used the Stabil brand but there are many others probably just as good), which basically keeps the fuel from "going bad" over the winter. You simply pour the specified amount per gallon into the fuel tank (a full tank is best, less room for condensation), run the engine until stabilized fuel has had a chance to reach the fuel distribution system (usually 15 minutes or so), and you're good to go until spring. Why is this so important? Today's gasoline is a blend of fuel, detergents and other additives that has a shelf life of about 30 days before the ingredients begin to separate and degrade. Stabilizer does just what it says - stabilizes the mixture so as to delay the separation and degradation. If you don't use it, it WILL cost you money at some point in the future, and carb jobs don't come cheap! Also, some will say it's not necessary for fuel injected engines which is a load of crap. Obviously inexperienced crap at that! Their idea is that EFI systems do not have "float bowls" that hold fuel like carburetors but these systems often have a component called a fuel/vapor separator that not only holds fuel but also houses a tiny submersible electric fuel pump that is most certainly susceptible to "bad gas". Can I show proof of this claim? Absolutely! As Svc. Mgr. at a local dealership, I had a customer's warranty claim on such a pump denied by Mercury Marine on the grounds that the fuel system was not properly maintained. The "bad gas" caused the pump to fail and subsequently cost the customer a whopping repair bill on an engine less than 2 years into a 5-year warranty! Sucks to be him. Then there's fogging oil, a handy little can of rust prevention! It generally comes in 3 forms; pourable (mainly for inboard engines with carburetors), spray cans (mainly for outboard engines with carburetors), and injection cans that look much like "fix-a-flat" with a hose and fitting that screws onto an injection port in fuel injection systems. Why is this important? It basically coats the inside of the engine with a thin film of oil to keep rust from setting in over the winter. Simple enough. The oil is poured or sprayed directly into carburetors, and injected into EFI systems while the engine is running, just before it is shut-down for its final winters rest. And again...you're good to go until spring. At this point, with outboards you're done, but with inboards you have one more VERY important step to go...draining the water from the engines cooling system. Outboards cool with water too but when you shut them down, as long as it is in the normal vertical position, the water runs out on its own. No problem. Inboards however, have an engine block just like a car that holds coolant but does not contain antifreeze like a car engine, therefore the coolant (water) must be drained to prevent freeze damage over the winter. Now here's where it gets interesting! Many newer model inboards have a "quick drain" system that allows easy and complete drainage from one point. Great idea and it was about time! But from around 2003/2004 back, it requires the removal of a series of drain plugs and hoses that can be, at best, elusive and hard to reach. Miss just one, any one, and you can crack an engine block, intake or exhaust manifold, or belt-driven water pump when the temps drop below 32 and trapped water freezes. You talk about a repair bill! You don't even want to know! I'm also an advocate of servicing the engine and drive/lower unit, particularly oil & filter change if applicable, when you have your boat winterized. Most boat dealers offer winterization packages that include all the above. Then in the spring you are, once again, good to go! Oh! One more step I almost forgot - disconnect the battery. Actually it's best to remove the battery so it can be charged periodically over the winter. This not only keeps it ready to go back into service but will extend the overall life of the battery. Lake Rats! You only have about 3 weeks to go until the Lake Hamilton/Lake Catherine draw-down, better be ready! Whew! A bit long-winded this time but I hope it was helpful. Please feel free to forward any questions you may have. Thanks.................Clay If you'd like to comment on this post please use the Contact form. |
Boat Storage and Winterization Guide